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On the Road Cooking Class: Balinese Chicken Tutu

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We’ve gotten pretty used to people trying to sell us things, so I was ready to say, “No, thank you” when the barefoot owner of Beten Waru pulled up a chair next to us and asked, “You like a very special dinner, special just for you? Six hundred people have my special chicken and not one say any bad thing. A spicy chicken, vegey-tables, rice. And then after, fruits. All different fruits. You must tell me one day ahead so my staff can prepare.” At $25 USD, it wasn’t keeping within our $20/day food budget, but I wanted special chicken. We could skimp on some lunches to even it out for special chicken. “Could I watch you cook?” I asked, as if I made it a learning experience it would make me feel better about blowing the budget. “No problem,” he smiled.

Iluh (pronounced ee-loo) and Ari were making dinner that night. They do just about everything from keeping the rooms to grounds maintenance to making the Chicken Tutu, our special chicken. They kindly let me take pictures while they worked and told stories in impressive English while they prepared dinner.

Chicken Tutu is a whole chicken, steamed first in water and then in a chili and garlic sauce, served with stir-fried veggies and rice. It might not sound like much, but it is. It is indeed a special chicken.

Note: There are several ingredients that you might not have at home. Lord knows I don’t usually have shrimp paste on hand. So either get a new ingredient and have a go at something totally foreign, or leave it out. I’m pretty sure it is going to be good regardless.

Chicken Tutu: a Laid Back Recipe as observed at Beten Waru in Amed, Bali

Get the rice cooking, then the chicken, then work on the veggies.

The Chicken

  • A whole chicken (get a good one, don’t mess around with any old bull shit Perdue bird)
  • A handful of whole, peeled garlic cloves (actually a handful, maybe 10 or more cloves?)
  • 3 or 4 medium-spicy chilis, seeded
  • a knob (2″) of fresh ginger, sliced
  • Small knob (1″) of fresh turmeric, or 1tsp dried turmeric
  • Pinch of brown sugar
  • Enough oil to make everything into a sauce
  • 1-2 stalks of Lemongrass

Blitz the garlic, chilis, ginger, and turmeric into a loose puree. Simmer gently to cook the garlic. Add a pinch of brown sugar and salt to taste. Steam the chicken until cooked, about 30-45 minutes. Drain most of the water. Pour the delicious puree over the chicken and rub some on the inside as well. Add a little water to the pot and submerge the two lengths of lemongrass in water. Continue to simmer until you finish the veggies.

The Veggies

  • Sliced shallots, maybe 5 of them
  • 3-4 sliced spicy chilis
  • Diced garlic
  • Prawn paste
  • Sliced green beans
  • Sliced carrots
  • Roughly chopped cabbage
  • Freshly grated coconut (When in the states, I’ll use unsweetened, dried coconut)

Sautee the first three ingredients in a little oil. Add a small amount of prawn paste. Iluh crumbled what looked like 1/8-1/4 tsp into the pan from a larger block. In a separate pan, steam the beans, carrots and cabbage. Drain the steamed veg and add to the shallot mixture. Add the grated coconut and a pinch of salt and continue to sauté for until the coconut is heated through and nicely combined.

Plate the rice and the veggies and serve the chicken whole, in the center to be shared. Serve with a Bintang or other tasty pilsner. Enjoy!

**Big thanks to Iluh and Ari for my cooking class!

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